Unlike many of my colleagues, I don't do field work in cool places. So when I go to conferences, I try to make the most of it! For the past 3 years now, I've been going to San Francisco every Decemeber to attend the American Geophysical Union's Fall Meeting (
here are a few highlights from this year's science) and I try especially hard to take advantage of being out in California. Adventures from previous trips I've added on after AGU include hiking in the Ventana Wilderness, camping in Yosemite Valley and romping around Mt. Diablo. This year, a good friend of mine convinced me to do a two day bicycle camping trip. We've both done a fair bit of road riding, but neither of us had ever done any overnight touring with camping gear. And it turns out it's not that much harder than just biking!
The journey began at the Berkeley BART station, where we lugged our bikes loaded with camping gear down the stairs. We hopped off at the downtown Embarcadero stop and mounted our bicycles beneath blue skies and sunshine on the streets of San Francisco. The plan was to bike through downtown San Francisco, over the Golden Gate Bridge into Sausalito, then 22 miles north to China Camp State Park (see the ride overview below).
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Overview of the ride from Sausalito to China Camp State Park
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As we rode through downtown, it was obvious we were headed in the right direction because of the increasing number of tourists on rented bikes. There was one big hill on the way, and while blowing and huffing up it I was momentarily confused when a smiling, flip-flop wearing family leisurely pedaled past me without breaking a sweat. I felt much better about it when I noticed the cleverly disguised motors on their bikes.
The ride over the Golden Gate bridge was phenomenal. It was a rare clear day and we could see across the entire bay from the hills of Berkeley to the East and the mountains of Marin County to the North. It could be a tough stretch in typical windy and cloud-socked San Francisco weather, but it's a real joy with clear skies and sunshine.
From Sausalito, we made our way north on a mix of bike paths, busy roads and at one point a bridge wide enough for a single pedestrian. The network of paved bike paths through Marin County is impressive and if construction continues at the rate the current paths were built, it might be possible to do the same ride solely on bicycle paths in ten years from now. Even if that were possible, though, I would still make a detour to Paradise Drive on the Tiburon Peninsula. After a half-mile long and about a 150 ft high climb, Paradise Drive wraps along the coast going mostly down hill for the next 4 miles into Larkspur. The pavement is perfect and the views of the bay are great.
Once in Larkspur, the ride quality drops quite a bit. There are still some bike paths, but they're next to loud, busy roads and go by strip malls and decaying industrial centers. As far as urban riding goes, it's not bad (hey, at least there ARE some bike paths), but it's maybe not what you envision when you're biking to a campground. Maybe the only photo-worthy site is the amazing
CalPark bicycle tunnel. Just make sure that when you make it out the other side you (1) pull ALL the way over to look at the map and (2) don't be checking your phone while biking behind someone who pulls over. Even crashes at 2 mph can give you ouches... not saying that happened... yeah... anyway...
The final push into China Camp State park is a mostly uphill 3.5 miles along N. San Pedro Rd. out of Santa Venitia. By the time we reached the park, the sun was long gone. As we coasted down the final hill, the moon was cresting over the horizon, lighting up the coastal marshes with an ethereal glow and I forgot that I had just biked 20 urban miles. We set up camp, threw on all our layers and sat down to eat a tasty meal of beans and corn masa tortillas.
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Fully loaded bikes at China Camp State Park |
The next day, we packed up the tent and other gear, loaded up the bikes (photo above) and then did a little exploring in the tidal marshes of China Camp State Park. The park holds a surprising number of micro-ecosystems. The wetlands sit on the waterfront and reach inward, wrapping around hills covered in open groves of oaks. Farther inward, the oaks continue but the sparse ground cover makes it seem as if they're inviting you in. Sadly, we did not catch a glimpse the absurdly cute Salt Marsh Harvest Mouse (
wiki,
photo for evidence of cuteness), an endangered rodent that is endemic to the salt marshes of the Bay Area.
After walking a short quarter mile loop, we hopped back on the bikes and headed south through the rest of the park - by far the the best stretch of riding on the trip. The road spit us out back in San Rafael, and 8 miles later, we arrived at the Larkspur ferry just minutes before it shipped out for San Francisco. The ferry ride was a more representative taste of San Francisco weather; cold, wet and windy with the Golden Gate Bridge poking through fog and a teasing hint of sunshine in the distance.
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Alactraz with the Golden Gate Bridge barely visible through the fog |